Diamond Cuts Explained: Part 1

This is the first of a two part article explaining the different diamond cuts that make ideal engagement rings, pendants or earrings.

Asscher Cut

Made famous by Joseph Asscher in 1902, an Asscher cut diamond is always square and strict proportions and symmetry apply. The original Asscher cut has 58 facets, but with the advent of modern technology, decsendants Edward & Joop Asscher improved on the original with The Royal Asscher Cut. It was hard to improve on the original, but the modern stones have a total of 74 facets thus proving even more radiant than the originals. Do not mistake square emerald cut diamonds as Asscher cuts, as although desirable in their own right, they are not representative of the true design.

Brilliant Cut Round

Round diamonds remain the most popular cut for engagements rings. We would suggest 70 to 80% of people choose a round diamond in preference to any other shape, hence they are often more expensive per carat than fancy shapes. A brilliant cut diamond has 58 facets and provides remarkable radiance and sparkle. A timeless classic, a round diamond engagement ring will never go out of fashion. The modern brilliant cut heralds from the bench of European diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919, but has undergone changes as technology has improved. Older brilliant cut stones will feature a larger culet, whereas most modern brilliant cut diamonds have none.

Cushion Cut

Cushion cut diamonds vary dramatically from square to rectangular, so it is always worth enquiring about the actual dimensions to determine the length to width ratios, as carat weight is no indication of shape. Cushion cut diamonds have larger facets therefore any flaws or inclusions may be more visible, so we recommend only considering diamonds with Si2 clarity or above. These remain a very popular choice, especially those who favour a ‘vintage’ look.

Emerald Cut

Not to be confused with the natural green gemstone, emerald cuts tend to be elegant rectangular stones with clean facets. They come in all shapes and size,s including square, but the ideal width/length ratio is somewhere between 1:3 and 1:4 As the table is large and open, it is important to choose a diamond of superior colour and clarity. It is not a cut that permits compromise, so we generally recommend a grading of H/Si1 or better as any flaws or inclusions will be more obvious than say in a brilliant cut stone as there are less facets.

Heart Shape

Heart shape diamonds are the most romantic and should be considered for Valentine’s Day gift or an expression of love. They were popular towards the end of the last century as engagement rings, but for some reason have fallen out of fashion. They still are a popular choice for pendants and make an ideal gift for a significant birthday, anniversary or milestone achievement. Importantly, they need to be well cut as the heart shape does not lend itself to sparkle and radiance, we recommend seeking out diamond with a cut grade of Ideal, Excellent or Very Good